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Nov.-Dec. 2004

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DESTINATION: INDIA


Quest for the Best Room on the Beach

I was stringing a mosquito net over the bed in the “Bambu House” when I heard a hello from outside. I stepped out to the front door to find a young couple standing there.

“We really like your house and wonder how long you’I'll be staying in it?” the guy said.

“I just moved in this morning and I plan to stay awhile,” I replied.

The girl looked surprised—she asked what time I had moved in that day. She started explaining that she had asked for a room around the same time but was told that none were available, but before she finished her story, her boyfriend interrupted her. He looked at me: “Well, lucky you.”

I watched them walk away and wondered if it was really luck.

A few days before, as I looked for my name on the dot matrix boarding manifest taped outside the red and yellow train car, a man standing on the platform urged me to get in. I boarded the Trivandrum Rajdhani Express just as it was pulling away from the H. Nizamuddin Railway Station in Delhi.

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I stepped aboard and walked the aisle to find a man in my assigned seat. I accommodated his request to switch so that him and his wife could be together for what the Indian Railways called the “Happy Journey.” It was a smooth and comfortable overnight ride to the Madgaon Station in Goa where I disembarked. I had come to Goa to explore the area with hopes of finding a good place to do some writing.

Standing on the platform, waiting for the local train to Palolem I said hello to a long, brown-haired roundish woman standing beside me who had a friendly smile.

“Where are you going?” I asked.

“Gokarna, and you?”

“Palolem,” I replied.

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"I slipped off the train behind a couple of other backpackers. From the platform, I could see a mob of travelers below."bar

“Oh, I’m actually going to meet a friend in Gokarna who just left Palolem, she didn't like it, she was pissed at all the loud music” she said.

But my report was different. I had received an e-mail from a couple of girls from California I had met in Varanasi that described the long beaches lined with palm trees and the warm water.

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