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Picture
and notation of Inca Trail by the author. Amy Loftsgordon.
However,
since travelers are no longer allowed to ride the local train, it’s
really not practical to start your hike at Km 88. Most hikers now travel
on private buses with a tour company to Km 82 to start hiking.
The
first part of the trail is a relatively easy walk to the village of Huayllabamba.
The challenging part comes on the path leaving the village but the different
types of vegetation and the scenery make this a really fun walk. You’ll
notice that the climb up becomes increasingly steep, and the terrain increasingly
rugged towards the first pass, called “Dead Woman's Pass,"
at 4,200m (13,750 feet).
After
the pass, the trail descends steeply towards the Valley of the Pacamayo
river. It then climbs sharply again the opposite side of the valley wall,
towards the second pass, which peaks at around 3,500m (11,550 feet).
Then,
the trail goes up and down in elevation and eventually you come to the
third pass at 3,650m (12,000 feet) before arriving at Huinay Huayna, the
site of an Inca ruin.
The
last section of the trail runs from Huinay Huayna to the Gateway of the
Sun. This is an easy hike, and trust me, it will be a relief after three
days of hardcore hiking. The path is level and eventually comes to a narrow
flight of stone steps leading upwards into a small stone structure. This
is the Gateway of the Sun and through the doorway you can see the ruins
of Machu Picchu. From here, a pathway leads directly to Machu Picchu itself
where you admire the splendor while sipping an ice-cold Pepsi.
Overall,
the classic Inca Trail is a challenging and sometimes difficult experience.
At times, it will seem almost pleasant to switch from hiking downward
to climbing upward just so that a different part of your leg will ache.
Having said that, I have seen everyone from children to retirees successfully
complete the Inca Trail -- and all managed with little or no problems.
And, after all the effort, I guarantee that you will feel proud of your
accomplishment.
The
Km104/Purification Trail
This
is the shortest hiking option to Machu Picchu, which typically takes 1½
- 2 days. This trail begins at the Inca site of Chachabamba (at Km 104)
and climbs up to Huinay Huayna. This climb is steeper than most parts
of the classic Inca Trail and takes about three hours.
At
Huinay Huayna, you join up with the last part of the Inca Trail and can
reach Machu Picchu in an hour or two. Some people have reported that they
were able to reach Machu Picchu in one day, but I don’t know how
-- that would be exhausting. I wouldn’t even consider doing this
trail if you can take the time on the Inca Trail since there are far fewer
ruins, views, and cool people on this route.
The
Mollepata Trail
For
die-hard hikers, there is the Mollepata Trail. This route is quite rough
and takes 6 days to complete. In fact, this is the most difficult of the
trails to Machu Picchu. You begin in the town of Mollepata and walk from
the Valley of the Apurimac to the Valley of the Urubamba and over a 5,000m
(16,400 feet) pass to eventually hook up with the Inca Trail. This option
is only for those who are in superb shape and love punishment.
In
order to determine which route to Machu Picchu is best for you, there
are several issues to consider.
First
of all, acclimatization can be a problem for some people. If you are unaccustomed
to high elevation, the first thing you’ll notice is that you are
always short of breath, you lose your appetite, and you may have a headache.
I live at an elevation of 7,500 feet in Colorado and had no problem with
the altitude, but for someone from Minnesota or Florida it may be a different
story.
Almost
everyone who goes to Cusco experiences some symptoms related to altitude
so plan to spend a few days in Cusco getting used to the elevation, which
is at 10,856 feet. Also, the physical shape you are in should determine
which route you take. You don’t have to be an Olympic athlete to
hike to Machu Picchu, but you’ll enjoy it a lot more if you’re
in good condition.
While
it used to be possible to hike the trails independently, a licensed guide
must now accompany all Inca Trail hikers. Most people go in tour groups
(usually from 7-15 people) with guides, porters and cooks. It is theoretically
possible to hire your own guide, but that would be an expensive option
and no one seems to know where to find a guide who is not affiliated with
a tour company.
Costs
The
costs of tours vary greatly. Reputable tour companies often are relatively
expensive whereas local budget operations usually offer a cheaper alternative.
Tour
companies come and go all the time in Cusco so it is difficult to recommend
one. Shop around and talk to other travelers to determine which is the
best for you. If at all possible, it is recommended to make a reservation
in advance since the trail is increasingly popular. Without one, you may
have to wait several days in Cusco before you can start hiking.
The
trail fee is now $50 USD for the full trail ($25 USD for some shorter
sections) or $25 USD for students under 26 with ID. When you are booking
a tour, be sure to ask as to whether trail and entrance fees are included
in the price so you aren’t surprised by added costs.
Recent
travelers say that it is no longer possible to pay trail fees at the trailhead--all
fees must be paid in Cusco. Additionally, it is important that you keep
your trail ticket with you at all times while hiking since it may be inspected
at various points along the route.
When
to go
The
ideal trekking season is April through October. However, in the main tourist
months of June, July, and August, it is sometimes difficult to get on
a tour since the number of travelers allowed on trail has been limited
to 500 per day. According to people I’ve talked to, the best time
to go is in late April or May.
Ultimately,
whichever hike you choose (or even if you go on the train or in a helicopter),
a visit to Machu Picchu will be a memorable adventure.
Amy Loftsgordon
lives in Colorado with her husband and three Australian Shepherds, but
has a tendency to abandon them on occasion for international adventures.
She has traveled extensively in Central and South America. Feel free to
contact her at with any questions or if you need a travel buddy!
Got
a question? Ask us at editor@insideoutmag.com and see your name in print!
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