InsideOut Travel—Bolivian Llama Mama Cont.

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A visit to the Witches' Market is a must for any curious explorer. One finds all sorts of combinations of turtles, little frogs and serpents, which respectively bring health, money and protection from the evil spirits. These three elements can be found on the figurines of Pacha Mama, as she is represented with three heads, a turtle on her front, a frog on her back and a snake around her legs. These make wonderful blessed gifts to bring home to family and friends.

Not only are there Pacha Mama figurines of all sizes at the Witches' Market but there are also a wide selection of dried llama fetuses, known as “sullus.” I had been forewarned about this practice by my friend from La Paz yet I was taken aback when I saw so many of them heaped into a pile, staring up at me.

The llamas' legs are tied together and the smaller fetuses look strikingly like little birds, due to their undeveloped jawbones resembling beaks. Before a fetus is sold, it is blessed by a witch and wrapped with some dyed “lana de llama,” a multi-colored llama wool. The impression I got was that the blessing was contained in the colored wool and that it was not to be removed.

Closeup of "sullas." Monique Mizrahi.

Dried llama fetuses are buried under the earth and an estimated 99 percent of all families in Bolivia have one under the foundation of their home for good luck. This belief is so strong that construction workers will refuse to work in a building if there has not been a “cha'lla,” or blessing, with a sullus buried underground at the work site.

As well as being used in religious ceremonies, llamas are herded for their wool and used for sheep guarding. They require minimal training and are happy to graze along with the sheep, requiring no special feeding. The llama droppings can also be used for fuel. If the llama mother is in fact sacrificed for her fetus, the meat and the wool of the mother can still be used.

Wondering how these llama fetuses had met their death, I asked a derby-hat-toting cholita woman who was selling all sorts of figurines and devotional objects, including dried llama fetuses.

Cholita woman in derby hat. Monique Mizrahi.

"Are you a witch?" I asked.

She and her friend laughed and she replied "No, I'm still training to become a witch.”

"Ah, and how do you get these llama fetuses? Are they killed?"

"No,” she said, "llamas often give birth to two babies at the same time, often one lives and one dies ... we don't kill the babies.”

The answer left me a bit perplexed and to this day I have not discovered exactly how the fetuses are acquired.

Many of the fetuses sold still have their white hair intact and you can choose the size you like. At New Year’s, special plates are made as offerings, which include a dried llama fetus and sweets. They are to be buried to ensure a prosperous, healthy and happy New Year.

I bought one but did not bury it and what followed was a stream of bad luck. Upon returning to Los Angeles, I lost my job, my upcoming photography exhibit was indefinitely postponed and I nearly got married to Mr. Wrong. So take heed of what the witches say and beware of their potent magical powers.

Catching a bug in Bolivia. Monique Mizrahi.

The Heart of Llamadom

The power of the llama and Pacha Mama is strong in the Andean region of Bolivia called Copacabana, which, by the way, came before the famous beach in Brazil.

One can take a minivan all the way from El Alto to Tiquina, where a ferry is used to cross the straights of Tiquina to continue the journey on to the lakeside town of Copacabana. Be sure to get on a minivan going all the way to Copacabana, otherwise you may get stranded at Tiquina as we nearly did.

Over 55 percent of all Bolivians speak either Aymara or Quechua as their first language, with Spanish as their second. Quechua was the language of the Incan Empire and Aymara is the pre-Incan language spoken in the region. These languages are very different from Spanish and are beautiful to hear.

Heed these three golden rules of the Inca Empire when traveling, “Ama suwa, ama llula, ama q'ella.” Translated from Quechua, this proverb says "do not steal, do not lie, do not be lazy".

You'll be pleasantly surprised how many Bolivians of all backgrounds know and incorporate this proverb in their lives. So beware, be open and be happy to come across a llama or Pacha Mama on your path in Bolivia.

Monique Mizrahi is an Italian-American woman with a passion for exploration and travel. She is an artist, musician and writer and has lived both in Los Angeles and Rome. As a capoeirista, she believes in freedom and improvisation in life.

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CONTINUED DESTINATION: BOLIVIA

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