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Sept./Oct. 2004

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DESTINATION: BOLIVIA


Bolivian Llama Mama

Bolivia is a spectacular country with a strong identity and a profound respect for Pacha Mama and for llamas. This landlocked South American country, bordering Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina and Chile, is the birthplace of both the Inca civilization and an overwhelming number of llamas.

In the local Quechua language, Pacha Mama means Mother Earth and she represents heaven, hell, God, and satan. Since the early 1500s when Pizarro led the Spanish and conquered the Incan Empire, the Incans gradually adopted the European catholic symbols as a façade to their own beliefs. While praying in church, the locals often visualize Pacha Mama, who is associated here with the Virgin Mary.

Llamas are found at high elevations, in places like the Andes mountains that embrace La Paz, the highest city in the world. Aptly named "the city that touches the clouds,” flying into La Paz—especially when coming from somewhere at sea level, like Los Angeles—literally takes one's breath away.

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The altitude is so high and the air so thin that it feels as if the airplane has landed too soon. It is common to feel “soroche,” altitude sickness, on one's first day or two in La Paz.

Any traditional Bolivian family will serve their visitor a “mate de coca” upon arrival, as was graciously done for me. Coca leaves are put into hot water and served. This drink helped me immensely with the lack of equilibrium I initially felt in La Paz.

Yes, this mate de coca is made with the ubiquitous coca leaves we associate with the illegal white powder. However, the leaf also helps with going for long periods without food, maintaining one's energy, easing pain and, most notably, enduring soroche.

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"Are you a witch?" I asked. She and her friend laughed and she replied "No, I'm still training to become a witch."

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Beware the Llama

Offerings to Pacha Mama can be found all over Bolivia and include llamas and their mamas. Healing herbs, traditional remedies, love potions and blessed objects of worship can be found in central La Paz at the “Mercado de las Brujas,” the Witches’ Market.

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Cow Rules in Jaisalmer
Urumqi Karaoke, part 1
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