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July 2004
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DESTINATION: OSAKA


A Walkable Feast in "Kitchen of Japan"

by Karen Shim

It may be the birthplace of many of Japan’s high arts, from the tea ceremony and flower arranging to bunraku and Noh theatre, not to mention a mecca for artists, writers, musicians and comedians but I go to Osaka on one simple mission— to chow down.

If Tokyo is the sophisticated, over-achieving older brother, Osaka is the rambunctious, easy-going and amusing younger sibling—revealing a gritty, tacky part of Japan you didn’t expect.

With gregarious locals full of chatter, you won’t find stereotypes of Japanese people in the country’s third-largest city. There is a saying that Tokyo residents will ruin themselves by spending too much on fine footwear, Kyotoites on fine kimonos, and Osakans on fine food.

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In short, Osakans take eating seriously as if it was their national sport. They’ve developed their own brand of cooking unrivalled anywhere else in Japan and it’s affordable, even for tourists.

Head to Namba

Begin your day early. Buy a copy of Kansai Time Out, an extensive monthly magazine covering Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe. It’s available at English-language bookstores and tourist information offices for 300 yen or about $2.70 USD.

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“Patrons look like they’re about to tumble over their plates from laughter or intoxication. ”bar

Head for the southern area of town (minami), conveniently located around Namba subway station. From the station, go north along Midosuji Avenue towards the Dotombori district—a bubbly brew of Osaka’s liveliest dining and nightlife.

Look for the running Glico man landmark pulsating from a giant electronic board among the vast array of neon adverts. As soon as you enter the bustling labyrinth that is Dotombori, the heady aromas of Osakan cooking will arrest you, as hundreds of eateries, bars and theatres line the narrow corridors. But don’t give in to the temptation and “eat yourself bankrupt”; pace yourself between meals and playtime.

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Avoiding Khao San Rd.
Destinations
Eating in Osaka
Shopping for Bamba
Cigarette Smuggler
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First Lesson in China
A Traveler's Life
Ayun Halliday
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Muy Bueno Care
English Spoken Here
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