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May 2004
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A Few Swatches Later

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Since that time, I’ve been to four continents and countless countries—all as a direct result of having an enjoyable first time journey across Europe. So, overall, I’d have to say that Europe was a great first-time overseas destination.

Here are some highlights of my trip:

England

In England, in addition to the punk nightclubs, I thought that Stonehenge was interesting.

The giant rock structures weren’t constructed as a random religious object as many mainstream scholars have hypothesized. Rather, it was strategically placed pursuant to strict astronomical considerations. No one really knows exactly what function these rocks served, though the particular arrangement of the stones shows that the designers had a thorough knowledge of astronomy.

In fact, it’s been shown that the alignments that result between Stonehenge and twelve major solar and lunar events are highly unlikely to have been a mere coincidence.

Pondering the strength and knowledge it must have taken to create this structure is something that one can spend hours thinking about. On a side note, Carhenge in Nebraska is also worth visiting, though it’s far less cerebral than England’s Stonehenge.

France

In France, a visit to Les Catacombes is well worth the price of admission.

In the late 1700s, the French government converted several subterranean caverns into mass graves. This was necessary due to extreme overcrowding in the medieval cemeteries in the center of Paris.

During this time, millions of bones and rotting corpses were transported from the cemetery in Les Halles to underground rooms and tunnels, which extend over 11,000 square meters underneath the city of Paris.

This bone collection from approximately six million people consists of skulls, femurs, ribs, tibias, and other skeletal remains. Some are displayed as crosses and other configurations, while others just seem to be in random piles.

These gruesome “galleries” average 2.3 meters high and the tunnels remain at a constant temperature of 11 degrees Celsius during both summer and winter.

If you’re not easily frightened or claustrophobic, it’s a fascinating display. However, if death and bones freak you out, this place will keep you in nightmares for years to come.

Italy

In Italy, a place I’ll never forget is a local ristorante that I visited in Vernazza. It was at this point that I realized how totally different real Italian pizza is from the fast food version I’d become so accustomed to in the United States.

I ordered my pizza with pepperoni and, as it turns out, in Italy “pepperoni” is different than what Domino’s thinks it is. It means peppers.

While Americans serve up their pizza with layers of cheese, meat, and numerous other toppings, Italians make pizza the simple way with tomato sauce, spices, fresh herbs and vegetables. Even though people around the world probably associate pizza more with America than Italy, I recommend the Italian version, as it was much tastier and healthier.

Germany

In Germany, one memorable place is the Hof Brau Haus in Munich. If you’ve ever been to a beer hall or German restaurant in the US and actually enjoyed it, then this place is not to be missed.

The Hof Brau Haus is like an American brewpub on steroids. It’s the quintessential Bavarian beer hall, complete with deafening German music and never-ending amounts of beer.

I don’t really have a good concept of how big the Hof Brau Haus is, all I remember is throngs of people. The atmosphere is great and I think just about every young American who visits the place pilfers one of the giant beer mugs to remember the experience. The wheat beer is very good, possibly the best beer I have ever tasted—and I grew up in Wisconsin, where the official state beverage is beer.

Actually, much of Germany looked a lot like Wisconsin to me—like in my home state, most people I met there were friendly and helpful.

Parting Shot

Here’s one last piece of advice for you, carry a lightweight backpack, take half as many clothes as you think you need, and invest in a Eurail pass. The rest will work itself out.


Amy Loftsgordon is a contributing editor at InsideOut Travel Magazine and works as a lawyer in Colorado, though she much prefers airports to courtrooms.

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