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March 2004

 

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Diving Catalina Island

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Last June, Matt and I got married in front of a three-story Northern Pacific exhibit, containing yellow-fin tuna and giant sea bass at the Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach, Calif..

Since we both have day jobs that unfortunately don't involve diving with fish and other critters, we were looking for an alternative to time-consuming and expensive trips and realized that we had a wonderful underwater paradise right in front of our door step.

That place is Catalina Island, located about 20 miles off of the L.A. coast. With soft hills, spectacular coast line and clear waters, it’s a paradise for natives and visitors alike and offers an incredible experience for new and seasoned divers.

From San Pedro harbor, the island is easily reached by ferry, with the Catalina Express. Once on Catalina Island, you’ll find the dive park within a 15-minute walk; if you don’t feel like lugging your dive gear, a taxi can take you there.

"Once you’re playing with a seal under water, you’ll quickly forget the temperature."

I've always loved the ferry ride, as we often have seen pods of dolphins swimming along-side the boat and riding the bow. Selfishly, I've always considered it a personal welcome.

During the warmer summer months, we have also spotted sun fish on occasion, also called mola mola, bopping on the surface. They are flat and almost perfectly round and probably some of the oddest-looking fish you'll see in these waters.

You can also get on one of the many dive boats that leave San Pedro harbor almost daily. In less than an hour, you’ll find yourself by the shore of the island.

I’ve tried Gary's Psalty Adventures a few times. The staff is friendly, the boat carries never more than six divers and the captain, Gary, takes requests for dive sites and sometimes brings along a friendly mutt who has learned to get from the upper to the lower deck on Gary's back.

Jerry, the dive master is great with nervous divers. He gave me special attention during my early dives by staying close to me and pointing out critters that I may have missed, including a very friendly harbor seal.

During one of our dives, which turned out to be one of my greatest dive experiences to this day, a group of about 60 sea lions eagerly waited for us around the boat, with their heads curiously sticking out of the water while we squeezed ourselves into the wetsuits.

They were greeting us with their dog-like sounds, voicing their impatience with our unskilled efforts to hurry into our rubber suits.

Sea lion underwater. Nadja Jung.

As soon as we hit the water, they came to play, approaching us at rapid speeds, playing with each other and nibbling on our flash lights. I swore I would bring an underwater Frisbee next time.

When on the Psalty, there’s no need to worry about lunch as it is served on board. Just bring your equipment and a warm jacket, as it can get chilly in between dives.

The dive park, a marine preserve, is inaccessible by boat and for anglers, it has offered a sanctuary for many fish, including the bright orange girabaldi, as well as the occasional harbor seal and giant sea bass during the summer months.

The park even has two small wrecks in it that can offer an interesting test for the navigationally challenged.

Matt and I dove the wrecks on two occasions and it's fun sitting in the smaller one, pretending to be rowing it, while bright orange girabaldi are eager to scoop up all the residue that we stir up.

The second wreck is a larger sail boat and you can swim into parts of its body and take a closer look at all the fish and plants that made this foreign object a part of their underwater world.

But aside from the abundant fish life, the kelp gardens that make California diving so rewarding, are growing abundantly in the park. The long strands of kelp grow from the sea floor often reaching the water surface and on average measure between 20 to 40 feet in length.

Having had the privilege to dive in Hawaii's unobstructed waters above hard coral reefs, California's kelp gardens remind of an enchanting emerald forest especially as the sun light breaks through the large leaves. While observing one of the long strands in mid-water, I felt like Jack and the beanstalk.

A garibaldi fish on the down-low in a kelp forest. Matt Brandt.

When you are swimming in perfect buoyancy through this underwater forest, take a moment, roll on your back and look up. The sun beams will shoot an instant feeling of joy through your veins.

The kelp gardens offer a great sight and variety of fish life for any experienced diver but also create a safe and fun environment for the beginner or somebody who is thinking of getting certified.

Dive classes are regularly held in the dive park and you’ll have plenty to choose from at Catalina Divers Supply or at Catalina Scuba Adventures.

The dive park's own dive shop offers basic supplies, such as dive suits, fins, masks and such. The dive shop also provides tanks and refills.

The one draw-back of California diving is the chilly waters. The temperatures vary from upper 50s during the winter months to the lower and mid 60s in the summer.

I could not help but question my sanity the first time I stepped off the platform and plunged into the cold waters. Thankfully I had an eager dive buddy with me who would not let me abort the adventure I was about to begin.

Your dives will probably last about 30 minutes to 45 minutes but will be well worth it, so don't be deterred. I've found a 7 mm suit with a dive skin, hood and gloves to be sufficient to keep me warm.

Just remember that although it may seem too cold for you in the beginning, this somewhat challenging environment will offer you sights you've never seen before and once you’re playing with a seal under water, you’ll quickly forget the temperature.

Some go home at the end of the day while others decide to stay overnight at one of the campgrounds or hotels. If you’re like me though, you may find yourself settling in close by sooner than you think. All it takes is a few e-mails.

Nadja Jung is a reporter, amateur underwater photographer, and avid nature and animal lover. Nadja is a German native who lives in Los Angeles with her husband Matt.

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For more information:

Gary's Psalty Adventures
(310) 714-0548

Gary@PsaltyAdventures.com.

Catalina Express
(800) 481-3470 to reserve ferry tickets ($43 roundtrip).

If you take an 8:50 am ferry and return with the 5:15 pm boat, you should have plenty of time for two to three dives, sufficient surface intervals and a nice lunch at the bistro close to the dive park. Check their schedule for time and fare changes.

Catalina Divers Supply
(800) 353-0330

Catalina Scuba Adventures
87-SCUBA DIVE

Ecatalina.com