I think if I ever go back to Inle Lake in Myanmar, I will do so to visit this remarkable woman.

Haymar Thaike is the granddaughter of the last prince of the Shan state, which is now part of Myanmar, and is the daughter of the first president of independent Burma (from 1948 - 1952). After more than a decade in the government, her father was thrown into prison (and died there) after General Ne Win staged a coup. In the late 80’s Sao Haymar (Sao is a mark of respect) returned to the shores of Inle Lake after serving as an accountant, lawyer, and teacher—and now runs the Woody Guest House (her ancestral home) in Yaung Shwe.

She charges reasonable prices for rooms, but does not charge for her company and stories, which are priceless. I was one of only two guests at the Woody Guest House on Dec. 25, 2001 and she did her best to spread Christmas cheer, including searching out a bottle of sparkling wine for me to have on Christmas Eve.

Photo and text copyright Jacques van Wersch.