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My Life in the Alaskan Bush |
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The
writer walking home from a basketball game in Bethel, AK. Courtesy
Amy C. Fleitas. |
Invest in silk long
underwear, expensive but worth it. They will keep you warm and don’t
itch.
When you are choosing a jacket, don't get cheap. You will wear your
jacket everyday in the winter—you should love it. You will be
covered in snow and you don't want to get soaked so make sure the outer
layer is waterproof.
If you are a female, you might think the ski-jackets that end at the
waist look good, but that’s a bad choice. Anything not adequately
covered is going to be awfully, painfully cold, your tushie included
so get a coat that covers it.
"But I look like a marshmallow!" you may moan. Yes, but you
will be a marshmallow that lives. This is preferable to a snow bunny
that dies of exposure.
Dies? Am I being melodramatic?
No, the Alaska wilderness kills people every year, even people who should know better. Every time you leave your house, you need to let someone know where you are going and when you will be back.
It is easy,
while living in the city, to be rescued if you screw up. Get lost? Use
your cell phone. Get tired? Call a cab. This does not work in Alaska.
It is possible, and quite likely, to get lost and stay lost without
ever coming into contact with another human being. You really can die—take
it seriously.
Is it just like “Northern Exposure?”
This is like the question about weather because Alaska is a big state
and every place is unique. One thing that happens in “Northern
Exposure” that would never happen in Bethel is the moose wandering
through town. I've seen it happen in Anchorage, but in Bethel, we eat
moose. It wouldn't last long wandering through town.
Yes, I've eaten moose, caribou, reindeer, whale fat and seal fat. Some
of it is good, some of it is gross, but you should try everything that
is offered to you. After all, you don't want to go to the Alaskan wilderness
to eat at the Olive Garden, right?
There is one particular dish you should try—Eskimo ice cream.
It is traditionally whale fat whipped together with berries, sugar and
raw fish. If there is no whale fat, Crisco may be substituted. It’s
an acquired taste but not something you should pass up. It's sort of
like chili in the Southern United States—everyone has their own
recipe and you'll offend them if you don't try it.
What are the Eskimos like?
First off, don't call them Eskimos as some natives find it offensive.
It is best just to ask how they would like to be addressed. There are
a lot of different names: Eskimo, Alaskan Native, and Native American.
There are also tribal names. For example, I lived with the Yup'ik Eskimos.
They are just like all people, everyone is different. There are some
different mannerisms of the culture, which vary from tribe to tribe.
"If you want to do a cruise, you'll have to go in the summer but I think wintertime is when Alaska is most beautiful."
One thing to keep in mind is that you are an outsider in their land. So, be respectful, don’t talk too much about yourself but do feel free to ask questions, always with the knowledge that you should not press people for answers. You may be asking something personal without realizing it.
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Things you should carry: I found myself walking everywhere and it was comforting to know I would have whatever I needed in an emergency. It's important to get a practical backpack. This means a size that won't break your back or crowd the hallway when you go indoors because everyone leaves their boots and bags in the hallway. The straps should be very comfortable; I found curved straps on a Northface pack distributed weight better than straight straps. Essentials for your pack: A water bottle An emergency blanket A first aid kit Some dog biscuits A reflector A camera Tons of film and a journal Jerky Pencils Turtle and mittens |
In general, I learned
to keep my mouth shut and listen. By listening I was accepted more readily
because my silence was a sign of respect. It showed that I came to listen
to what they had to say and learn from the people who had grown up there.
I learned this painfully upon realizing how many people I had offended
by being what I thought was outgoing and friendly, which was sometimes
taken as obnoxious and loud.
Did you see an igloo?
No, igloos are like tents, used as temporary shelter. This is a common
misconception. People in Alaska live in houses.
When should I go?
If you want to do a cruise, you'll have to go in the summer but I think
wintertime is when Alaska is most beautiful—The northern lights,
snow machines plowing across the tundra, piles and piles of snow, and
a sky so bright with stars it looks fake. If you come in the summer,
you miss all of that.
Some people think I was insane to spend winters in Alaska, but the first
time I saw the northern lights, bright green and flickering like flashlights
through fog stretched out over the horizon, I was breathless. There
is nothing more beautiful.
Amy
C. Fleitas is a reporter and writer based in Florida. She
is currently working on a book based on her experiences in the Alaskan
Bush.
